There are a wide variety of different diameters, lengths and types of rope available for every style of mountaineering and climbing. This guide is here to help you understand the differences and what each class of rope is for.

Types of Rope

The different types of rope are indicated by the following markings on the packaging and usually on the end tags of the ropes too. 

Single Rope

Single ropes are designed to be used on their own and typically are 8.5mm to 11mm. A single rope is the standard rope for use sport climbing, indoor climbing, mountaineering and rock climbing routes which don't involve much zig-zagging around which causes drag on single ropes. 

Half Ropes

Half ropes are designed to be used in pairs but where only one rope is clipped to each piece of gear. They are standard for trad climbing in the UK.

In the event of a fall only one rope usually takes the force of the climber, but both ropes being in the system give redundancy should one piece of gear fail or worse a rope become damaged. Half ropes are typically 7.5mm to 9mm. 

Two single ropes can be used as half ropes, clipping gear to the left and right rope in the same way half ropes are designed to be used. This doesn't provide the weight saving benefit of using skinnier half ropes but does provide more abrasion resistance. 

Twin Ropes

Twin ropes are designed to be used in pairs where both ropes are clipped to every piece of gear. Twin ropes and twin rope techniques are seldom seen in the UK but are a useful technique for straight up sport or ice climbs where two ropes are required for long abseil descents but can be treated as one rope in ascent to make ropework easier.

Twin ropes are typically 7.1-8mm. Twin ropes aren't designed or rated to take a fall on one strand of rope and should always be clipped to every piece of gear or bolt. 

Triple Rated Ropes

These can be used singularly or in pairs as either halves or twins.

Don't mix and match on the same pitch: if you start clipping both ropes to the gear continue like this, or if you are clipping separately continue using the tripled rated ropes as halves because in the event of a fall ropes clipped as both twins and halves on the same pitch of climbing can rub against each other and cause damage or dangerous rope on rope wear.

Walking or Confidence Ropes

These ropes are designed for specialist use in mountaineering settings to look after a second or for lightweight crevasse rescue scenarios. They are usually not designed or rated for a lead fall on a single strand. 

Static Ropes

These low stretch ropes are designed for abseiling on and typically are around 9-11mm. They are not suitable for use as a lead climbing rope but can make up part of a top rope system as a rigging or climbing rope. 

Accessory Cord

This low stretch cord is perfect for making your own prussiks (5/6mm) or for use as abseil tat (7mm).

Length

The length of rope will often be dictated by the length of pitches you will climb. Remember that you may also need some rope to build a belay and belays may be a long way back from the top of the cliff, so a slightly longer rope than the minimum length is a good idea. 

For sport climbing you will need a rope twice the length of the longest routes you intend to climb in order to lower off safely. A route of 25m requires a 50m rope etc. Many UK sport routes are climbable with a 50m or 60m rope, but abroad a 70m or 80m rope is often required. 

For trad climbing in the UK, 60m half ropes standard and a good choice of length for all-round summer and winter climbing. Climbers who only climb on the Peak District Gritstone or other low crags may opt for a shorter rope length of 30 or 40m as those cliffs are substantially shorter than many other trad cliffs in the UK. 

For mountaineering and scrambling use a 40-50m rope is a good choice, or even a really short 25m rope if it's for emergency use on a very short section of climbing/abseiling. 

For most indoor walls a 30m single rope will suffice but some may require longer. Check with your wall before you buy an indoor rope.

A 60m static abseil rope will be enough for most popular crags in the UK with some extra rope spare for rigging the abseil. 

Diameter

There is a trend in climbing gear to make everything smaller/thinner/lighter. Whilst super skinny ropes are amazing if you need to save weight, usually tiny diameter ropes are a bit specialised for general use. 8.5mm Beal Operas are the thinnest single rope on the market, but unless you are climbing cutting edge routes do you actually need to save that much weight?

The thicker the rope, generally, the more abrasion and cut resistant the rope.

Small diameter ropes require specific belay devices designed to work with them.

It is easier to catch a falling climber with a thicker rope as there is more rope to jam in the belay device and hold onto, making a thicker rope a good choice for a beginner belayer. 

However, a thicker rope will weigh more and wont feel as nice to handle compared to thinner ropes. 

Use a lower diameter rope when weight is important eg. For long alpine routes or winter climbing, and a thicker one where higher abrasion is expected or weight isn't an issue eg. Working a route on top rope or training at the climbing gym. 

Rope Treatments

Various rope treatments are available which help to prolong rope life, help maintain supple handling and stop the rope absorbing excess water. If you expect to encounter moisture eg. when ice climbing or winter mountaineering it makes sense to use a 'dry treated' rope. For general use dry treatment is less important as people rarely sport climb in the rain! 

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