Preparing for winter mountaineering and climbing requires lots of planning to make the most of your day and maximise what you can do safely given the weather, snow conditions and your skills.

Here are a collated selection of resources which can help you plan your days out.

If you are unsure about where to go and what to do, we cover all aspects of planning on our winter skills, mountaineering and climbing courses, or just let your guide handle the planning for a memorable day out.

Weather Forecasts & Conditions

Before deciding where to go, it’s always important to know what the weather will bring. Looking at the forecast in conjunction with the weather monitoring stations can give you an idea what actually happening on the ground (is it freezing? is it windy?) and what is predicted to happen over the time you will be out on the mountain.

Mountain Weather Information Service: www.mwis.org.uk
MWIS gives a great mountain specific forecast for mountain weather in the UK. Individual areas are forecasted separately to give a more accurate local forecast.

Met Office Mountain Forecast: www.metoffice.gov.uk/weather/specialist-forecasts/mountain
A good alternative/additional forecast to MWIS, the Met Office mountain forecast can give algorithm based forecasts

Ben Nevis CIC Hut Webcam & Weather Station: www.smc.org.uk/cicwebcam/cic_weather

The webcam and weather station at the CIC hut, set below the North Face of Ben Nevis at an altitude of 680m. A good indication of what’s happening up high (if you can see anything in the pictures!) and what the current temperatures are at 680m.

Aonach Mor Weather Station: www.holfuy.com/en/weather/1365

Data provided to help SAIS with avalanche forecasting, this weather station gives summit height data from 1185m. Good to see the temperatures at summit level over the past few days. You can extrapolate possible temperatures for Aonach Mor and Ben Nevis at crag apron height (about 900m). If it’s good and cold at 1185m then the bottom of the climbs will probably be well frozen. If it’s 2c at 1185m then the chances of finding good conditions below this height are slim.

Cairngorm Summit Weather Station: www.cairngormweather.eps.hw.ac.uk/current.htm

Summit data from Cairngorm at 1245m.

Scottish Winter Conditions on Facebook: www.facebook.com/groups/scottishwinterclimbingconditions/

Probably the best group for up to date information on Scottish winter conditions. As always, take reports with a pinch of salt and make your own judgement. Individuals reports may not be as accurate as those from instructors with experience, but these may also hype up how good the climbing was on a given day as it’s business advertising after all!

Facebook and Instagram posts may also give a good idea of what’s going on. It’s worthwhile keeping an eye on these conditions in the weeks leading up to a trip so you can see what style of routes are getting climbed: is it lean and everyone is climbing mixed? Is the ice looking really fat? etc.

UKC Winter Climbing Conditions: www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/conditions/uk_winter/

Recently logged winter climbs on UKC giving a general idea of what people are climbing and where.

Scottish Winter Climbing Forecasts: www.winterclimbingforecasts.co.uk

AI driven forecasting for which areas may be in condition.

Avalanche Awareness

Scottish Avalanche Information Service: www.sais.gov.uk

If you only read one forecast, make it the SAIS forecast for the area you intend to visit. Understanding the objective dangers of the winter environment is essential. If you’re unsure, it’s worth seeking expert advice. Any of our winter courses will cover reading and understanding the avalanche forecast. More information on interpreting the forecast can be found here.

Be Avalanche Aware: www.beaware.sais.gov.uk

Additional resources from SAIS on how to plan your day using the BAA protocol. Well worth a look and taking the time to understand the framework if you’re new to the winter environment.

Winter Gear & Equipment

Our winter course kit list

Choosing an ice axe: www.straightupadventures.co.uk/axes

Choosing crampons: www.rab.equipment/uk/choose-crampons

Clothing advice for winter: www.straightupadventures.co.uk/winter-clothing

Winter specific climbing protection: www.straightupadventures.co.uk/wintergear

Ice axe, crampon and boot hire: www.mountainhire.co.uk (Fort William) & www.tiso.com/hire (Aviemore)

Accommodation & Logistics

The West coast of Scotland & Fort WIlliam

For West Coast courses, accommodation somewhere in the Fort William area is preferable. The town is large (by Highland standards at least) and there is a good selection of accommodation of all prices and standards.

The town has a several large supermarkets, petrol stations and outdoor shops so supplies are easy to purchase, along with all the shops you would expect in a town.

There are a few good places to eat, personal favourites being Rain Bakery and Black Isle Brewery.

Getting There

Public transport which coincides with winter mountaineering time scales is hard to come by. Most independent visitors find it easiest to hire a care to allow them to start early and have a flexible finish time when out climbing or mountaineering.

For course participants, pickup and drop off in the Fort William area might be available: it’s best to check in advance with us.

Getting to Fort William by train is possible with an overnight Caledonian sleeper from London.

The nearest airports are Inverness or Glasgow. Bus transfer is possible from either airport.

Megabus run national coaches which stop in Fort William.

The Cairngorms and Aviemore

For Cairngorm courses, accommodation in the Aviemore area is best. Aviemore is set up well for tourists and again has lots of accommodation choices.

There is a small Tescos in town, but it’s not the biggest supermarket. Visitors might find it easier to bring specific food choices with them, or shop on route at a larger store. There are many many outdoor shops and a petrol station, plus all small town amenities. The Old Bridge Inn is a good place for a hearty evening meal and pint.

Getting there

As with Fort William, car is the easiest way to access the mountains around Aviemore, and allows the most flexible transport options for starting early and finishing late.

The Caledonian sleeper runs from London to Aviemore giving overnight train access to the centre of town.

The nearest airport is Inverness, and bus transfers from the airport are available.

Megabus run national coach services to Aviemore. Transport to Cairngorm ski centre is possible by taking the number 37 bus from Aviemore, but this services arrives too late (0945) for mountaineers heading out for the day.

Scottish Winter: www.scottishwinter.com

Simon Richardsons general round up of Scottish Winter Climbing. Good for general psyche!

Want To See More?

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Not Sure What You're Doing?

Feel like you need some help with your climbing? Why not book onto a Winter Skills or Self Rescue course and get some professional input on your anchor building, learn some new skills and take your climbing ropework to the next level.